Khumbu, between mineral silence and towering peaks
—a physical and spiritual journey
Born from chaos, the world’s highest mountains rose from the Earth
Millions of years ago, the collision of the Indian and Eurasian tectonic plates reshaped the Earth’s crust. From this cataclysm emerged the Himalayan range, now home to 14 of the world’s highest peaks — eight of which lie in Nepal. Among them, Everest, the so-called “roof of the world”, stands tall at 8,848 metres.
Its Western name comes from the British cartographer George Everest, who estimated its height in 1847. But this legendary summit carries many names: Chomolungma in Tibetan, Sagarmatha in Nepali, Zhūmùlǎngmǎ in Chinese. Multiple names for one mountain, shared by two nations — China (north face) and Nepal (south face). Around it, sharp ridges and glacial walls draw a landscape as breathtaking as it is inhospitable.
A land of walking, introspection, and altitude
The Khumbu region, homeland of the Sherpa people, stretches from Lukla airport and the gates of Sagarmatha National Park all the way to the highest summits. Nestled in a cirque of towering peaks, the village of Namche Bazaar — laid out in the shape of a Y — serves as a crossroads for several valleys that wind toward glacial moraines, base camps, and the Chinese border.
Since Nepal opened to foreign visitors in 1951, Namche has become a vital hub for high-altitude trade and tourism. Gradually, small villages were built to host expeditions and trekkers.
Yet despite occasional waves of tourism, the Khumbu still offers rare moments of profound silence and stillness — ideal conditions for a journey that is both physical and spiritual. With fewer distractions, introspection comes more easily. So does acclimatisation.
Everything is connected. In this region, altitude is a constant challenge. Restful sleep helps the body recover and adjust to thinner air, enabling safe progress up the slopes. Acute mountain sickness can strike without warning, from a simple headache to a life-threatening condition. One must stay attuned to the body’s signals, to truly live in the moment.
Sagarmatha National Park is home to a surprisingly rich alpine ecosystem. As you climb higher, the landscape transforms: from dense forests to rhododendron groves, and eventually to the mineral desert of high mountain terrain. Above 4,000 metres, the rules of the high Himalayas take hold.
The Sherpas — a Tibetan ethnic group — have migrated here over many centuries. Though their name has become synonymous with “porter” or “guide”, Sherpa is first and foremost a culture: warm, multilingual, deeply hospitable. Along the trail, a Sherpa is often much more than a guide — they become a companion, sometimes a friend.
The conquest of Everest — between myth and mystery
In the 1920s, while Nepal was still under British influence, an English expedition received permission to attempt the ascent of Everest. In 1924, George Mallory and Andrew Irvine vanished on the slopes of the giant. A teammate saw them through his binoculars, not far from the summit — then the clouds rolled in and swallowed them.
Did they reach the top before perishing? Did their oxygen equipment fail? Were they caught in a storm? We may never know.
In 1999, an expedition found Mallory’s body, missing the camera and the photo of his wife he had intended to leave at the summit. Irvine has yet to be found. He may still carry the Kodak camera that could reveal the truth.
In 2024, a new expedition discovered a shoe and a sock marked with Irvine’s name. A DNA sample has been taken. Perhaps soon, the mystery will be one step closer to resolution.
Everest conquered, and the rise of mass tourism
On June 3, 1950, French climbers Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal summited Annapurna I (8,091 m), becoming the first people to climb a peak over 8,000 metres.
On May 29, 1953, Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay became the first to successfully reach and return from the summit of Everest.
From then on, the Himalayas opened to international expeditions. Lodges sprang up in remote villages. The trails began to fill with mountaineers, trekkers, dreamers — and photographers.
Mani Rimdu — living spirituality in the mountains
Despite its sparse population, the Khumbu is culturally vibrant. The nearby Tibetan border has long nurtured deep spiritual and commercial exchanges with Nepal.
Tibetan Buddhism — the heart of Sherpa culture — runs through these valleys. Monasteries, prayer wheels, and strings of multicoloured flags fluttering in the wind create a sacred rhythm to the land.
Each year, the Tengboche Monastery hosts the great Mani Rimdu Festival, drawing Tibetan and Nepali pilgrims, villagers, and curious trekkers. Ritual dances, chants, shared prayers… yak butter tea warms the soul. The masks, music, and costumes mesmerise. A timeless moment, cradled in the heart of the mountains.